'98 900CR - downshift problems
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'98 900CR - downshift problems
I'm having a problem downshifting on my '98 900CR. The clutch appears to be fine, but for some reason the bike will only downshift 1 gear while running.
I can upshift no problem right through the gear box. It will easily downshift 1 gear but no further. If I shift up to 6th I can downshift easily to 5th but no further. Likewise if I shift up to 2nd I can downshift to 1st no problem, but if I shift to 3rd I can only downshift to 2nd. If I shut the bike off, I can eventually shift down to 1st.
There are no unusual noises shifting up or down. The shift lever moves freely during up and down shifts, it is not binding. It acts just like it would if I was in 1st and tried to downshift, or was in 6th and tried to upshift. The lever moves, but nothing happens.
Is this likely the clutch? It has 31,000 km on it and multiple track days. I had planned to replace it over the winter anyway. The clutch has fresh fluid and is bled properly, since I can easily downshift one gear.
Or could this be something more $ini$ter?
Thanks,
I can upshift no problem right through the gear box. It will easily downshift 1 gear but no further. If I shift up to 6th I can downshift easily to 5th but no further. Likewise if I shift up to 2nd I can downshift to 1st no problem, but if I shift to 3rd I can only downshift to 2nd. If I shut the bike off, I can eventually shift down to 1st.
There are no unusual noises shifting up or down. The shift lever moves freely during up and down shifts, it is not binding. It acts just like it would if I was in 1st and tried to downshift, or was in 6th and tried to upshift. The lever moves, but nothing happens.
Is this likely the clutch? It has 31,000 km on it and multiple track days. I had planned to replace it over the winter anyway. The clutch has fresh fluid and is bled properly, since I can easily downshift one gear.
Or could this be something more $ini$ter?
Thanks,
Last edited by OneWheelDrive on Mon Oct 03, 2005 1:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
John R.
DOCC #42
DOCC #42
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OneWheelDrive - Posts: 631
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John,
There are a couple of possibilities, it is not the clutch, because you can run through all the gears without a clutch(bike not running) by moving the back wheel.
Take off the left side cover there is a mechanism that the pusshed the drum back and forth, I have seen the legs bend or break.
If you have a workshop manual take a lookat what I am talking about or give me a call.
paul
There are a couple of possibilities, it is not the clutch, because you can run through all the gears without a clutch(bike not running) by moving the back wheel.
Take off the left side cover there is a mechanism that the pusshed the drum back and forth, I have seen the legs bend or break.
If you have a workshop manual take a lookat what I am talking about or give me a call.
paul
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Paul, thanks for the input. I will take a look on the weekend. Can I assume you meant "there is a mechanism that pushes the drum back and forth"
Last edited by OneWheelDrive on Mon Oct 03, 2005 12:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
John R.
DOCC #42
DOCC #42
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OneWheelDrive - Posts: 631
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Thanks Dan. I was hoping to join you and Eric at Penninsula on Saturday but without being able to shift, I couldn't make it out.
The side cover has never been off the engine, so I expect that gasket might be destoryed in taking it apart. I'll have to order a new one.
Darn, I wish Terminal Velocity was still around.
The side cover has never been off the engine, so I expect that gasket might be destoryed in taking it apart. I'll have to order a new one.
Darn, I wish Terminal Velocity was still around.
John R.
DOCC #42
DOCC #42
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OneWheelDrive - Posts: 631
- Joined: Sun Dec 19, 2004 11:32 pm
- Location: Lost in my own little world
John,
You can use Suzukibond or Yamabond, they are all the same, it is what I used to put my cases together na dit is amazing stuff, I also used on the waterpump cover with no gasket!
You may also find that Peninsula has parts in stock,call and ask for Anthony.
In the drawing that dan posted it could be the spring (27)or the arm (25).
I have seen the tabs break, they can be welded or find a new one.
Good luck.
paul
You can use Suzukibond or Yamabond, they are all the same, it is what I used to put my cases together na dit is amazing stuff, I also used on the waterpump cover with no gasket!
You may also find that Peninsula has parts in stock,call and ask for Anthony.
In the drawing that dan posted it could be the spring (27)or the arm (25).
I have seen the tabs break, they can be welded or find a new one.
Good luck.
paul
- huit
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- Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 8:45 pm
- Location: toronto
Hi John,
All good advice so far. My guess is it's likely one of the springs in the diagram broke. If you're adventurous, you can get 3' lengths of tempered wire (also called piano wire) from a hobby shop (used for model airplane landing gear) and wind your own, but it's far easier to order a new part. Inspect part# 25 closely for wear or breakage as Paul suggested.
Whatever it turns out to be, before you close up, centralize the shift mechanism. You do this by installing the shift lever, or linkage on the shaft, and move the lever all the way up from nuetral. Scribe a line on the engine case where the "drum grabber fork" (part #25) stops. Then move the lever all the way down & scribe another line. Scribe a 3rd line exactly 1/2 way between the first 2 lines, and with the shift mecahnism at rest in nuetral, use the eccentric screw (attaches to nut # 23, I think) to adjust the fork position to the third line. You can cut your own gasket using similar thickness paper, as the gasket thickness is not critical.
Don't worry about the clutch until it starts slipping. They usually last along time on stock machines if they're not abused.
Cheers, Rocket
All good advice so far. My guess is it's likely one of the springs in the diagram broke. If you're adventurous, you can get 3' lengths of tempered wire (also called piano wire) from a hobby shop (used for model airplane landing gear) and wind your own, but it's far easier to order a new part. Inspect part# 25 closely for wear or breakage as Paul suggested.
Whatever it turns out to be, before you close up, centralize the shift mechanism. You do this by installing the shift lever, or linkage on the shaft, and move the lever all the way up from nuetral. Scribe a line on the engine case where the "drum grabber fork" (part #25) stops. Then move the lever all the way down & scribe another line. Scribe a 3rd line exactly 1/2 way between the first 2 lines, and with the shift mecahnism at rest in nuetral, use the eccentric screw (attaches to nut # 23, I think) to adjust the fork position to the third line. You can cut your own gasket using similar thickness paper, as the gasket thickness is not critical.
Don't worry about the clutch until it starts slipping. They usually last along time on stock machines if they're not abused.
Cheers, Rocket
Bike borrower extraordinaire!
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