Hi all,

I am a new duc owner as of this past weekend and I have a question regarding my clutch. The bike stats are 2001 M900S with 14500 kms

During my initial test ride of the bike the clutch seemed to be functioning fine. Once out on the highway to ride the bike home I found that the clutch would slip at approx. 5k rpm in the top two gears under hard acceleration. When I got back into the city I tried accelerating in the lower gears and the clutch seemed to be holding. Yesterday I took it out again and it now seems to slip under hard acceleration in all gears.

Does this mean what I think it means, i.e. the clutch needs to be replaced?

Is 14500 kms early for a clutch to go? Meaning that this one was likely abused.

Any estimates on what it should cost to have it replaced.

Thanks Chris

Hi Chris,
If you are mechanically skilled enough to tackle the job yourself, take the clutch plates out and inspect them (it's pretty simple, especially if you have a workshop manual- the Haynes book should be accurate in this area, although it doesn't cover the F.I. bikes)
Look for glazing on the friction plates.
Check the metal plates for warping.
Measure the overall thickness of the pack, and compare it to the specs.
Glazing can be sanded off (120grit), warped plates have to be replaced (you might luck out and be able to get them singlely, probably used).
If the pack is under spec. you have to buy a new set of friction plates.
Since this problem developed right after you bought the bike, I suspect the previous owner knew about the problem, and attempted some kind of temporary fix (maybe shimming the springs with washers & sanding the friction plates), but didn't want to fork out for a new set of plates. When you open it up, be on the lookout for bullsh*t bodges of this nature, and too much silicone.
The previous owner may have taught himself to do burn-outs & wheelies on the bike, as the clutch should last as long as the engine.
Cheers, Rocket

Thanks for the reply Rick. The bike is now in with a dealer to be checked as I was given a limited warrenty when I bought the bike.

I was wondering if the clutch should make more noise when it is in need of replacement, my did not.

I have also been reading about problems with clutch slaves, does anyone know more about this? Does this problem only prevent the clutch from engaging or can it cause slipping as well? What are the signs of a slave problem, should I see leaky fluid around the slave or ...?

As for replace ment clutches what are peoples experiences with OEM and Barnett.

Thanks Chris

Barnet clutch packs are good, they last loger than OEM.
Consider going to an Alloy Basket ot the Barnet Basket with steel inserts.
They work better than OEM, quieter and lighter.

paul

Well a bit of an update on my situation. The dealer pulled the clutch out and found that the plates were under spec. They replaced the fibers, steels, springs and cups, and flushed the clutch fluid. The slave had also not been upgraded with the new slave design so they replaced the slave under the recall. All should be good right...

Not so lucky, When I picked up the bike and drove alway I rolled on the throttle and the clutch slipped. I turn around to head back and cracked the throttle again, no clutch slipping this time. So I figured it was just the clutch plates seating or something and rode home. The clutch worked fine the whole way, great. Monday morning I roll out to go to work and I can barely leave because the clutch is slipping so bad. I ride along and it seams to be getting better with time, by the time I get to work (15km) it seems to be working fine. When I leave to go home same thing again only the begining slipping is even worse but fine by the time I get home. What gives? It seems that after the clutch heats up the plate expand and work properly?

Does anyone have any ideas? I have been reading on Monster List that the stack height can change depending on what order you place the plates in. I mean steel, fiber, steel, ... you get one stack height and then just rearrange the plates in a different order but still steel, fiber, steel, ... and now you get a different height. Does this make sense?

Regards,

Chris

My case is slightly differnet due to my wet clutch but I also had the same slipping at hard acceleration in high gears. I tried a Barnett kevlar clutch and it never slipped. It was a nasty clutch to use and very loud when engaging, but it didnt slip. Not liking the noise I put a stock clutch back in but only to have it slip again, so back to the Barnett Kevlar and live with the cranky loud clutch, that never slips.

here is a link to a site that may be of help.

http://www.ducati.net/faq.cfm?id=47

Hi Shecky,
Is your bike a wet clutch, or dry? Sometimes (not in all cases) wet clutches will slip if a full synthetic motor oil is used.
While what the dealer did sounds correct, the big problem what was done didn't fix the problem. I guess you have to back, and give him another shot.