Stuck Clutch

[Jack C]

[Rob374]

[Jack C]

Thank you Rob. I now have clutch action! I did run into an odd thing--it seems that the plates go Friction, metal, friction, metal etc, But after the 2nd or 3rd friction plate there were 2 metal plates together. I put them back in like that, but do wonder about it. I do not think the clutch was ever apart.

Any thoughts on this?

Jack

[cdnroadracer]

The process of two metal plates is still used in some ducati clutches, and other makes as well. It is used to get the proper stack height of the clutch.

Neither of the slippers I have are that way, but the stock clutch on my 1999 Monster was like that. As well, I did a clutch this summer on a friend's ST2, and it was the same from the factory, but the replacement pack was the correct initial height without the doubled steel plates.

I am not sure about the vintage bikes, but the modern ones, I can also get varying thicknesses of steel plates to get closer to the optimum stack ehight.

[Rocket Rick]

Hi Jack,
All singles alternated friction & steel plates, starting, and ending with a friction plate. If yours has 2 steel plates together, it's incorrectly assembled, and probably missing a friction plate, or worse it's been more extensively bodged. That said, if it's working as is, and not slipping, its probably OK to leave it. While you had it apart, you should have lubed the cable, hand lever pivot, and repacked the push rod assembly with grease. The order of the push rod assembly, from the clutch side is as follows: adjuster screw, 5x5mm roller, 3/16" ball, long rod, 3/16" ball, short rod. Cable routing can affect the lever effort. Usually the best route from the lever is outside the right fork leg, crossing below the ign. coil and above the exh pipe, around the left side of the cylinder to the back of the motor. If the cable touches the exh. pipe, use a tywrap to make a loose loop to hang it from the frame. The key thing here is a gentle "S" bend, with no binding at full lock either way.
Cheers, Rocket

[Jack C]

Thanks for all the info!

Rick, save me some reading time........how do you get the clutch mechanism pieces you described (ball, rod, etc) out of the engine. When I opened up the case I first proped the bike so it was tilted to the right to keep the oil from draining out. Maybe that kept the 1st ball from falling out?

What sort of grease should I use? One book mentions oil.

It does take quite some effort to pull in the clutch lever, and I do not see a grease nipple on the cable.

I have several manuals, but none really go into detail telling you how to do something, just to do it. I think what I need is the Ducati equivilent to the old "volkswagen repair for the complete idiot"

Jack

[Chris Collins]

Rocket, we still need you to write that book, with many pictures

[Rocket Rick]

Tilting the bike was a good idea, The correct oil level is just a little higher than the bottom of the primary cover. The first part on the clutch side is a roller, and it may,or may not come away with the spring plate, depending on whether the desmo gods want to have a laugh watching you try to figure out where the little begger got to.
To get the pushrod assembly out, you have to remove the clutch cover, and the sprocket cover. On the sprocket side, the short pushrod can be seen. The clutch lever bears on it. Pull it out with your fingers. Note the rounded end fits in the socket on the lever (grease here too). Remove the clutch spring plate. Now use a length of rod the same dia. as the short push rod (or less, maybe a coat hanger) to push the rest of the assembly out through the clutch side. Any chassis lube, or axle grease will do.
The best way to lube the cable is with a cable luber. You can buy 'em at bike shops, They use aerosol can lubricants like silcone, chain lube/wax some guy's even use WD40 (ugh!).
Now you've got to set the cable & clutch adjustment. Screw the hand lever adjuster all the way in, then back it out 'til the cable slots align. If the adjuster hits the lever, then back out 'til it clears, and install the cable.
setting the engine lever is done with the adjuster on the clutch spring plate. You want it set so you've got full travel on the engine lever, without hitting the cover, or bottoming on the engine. You must also take up any slack witih the hand lever adjuster, leaving about 1/8" free play. If the free play keeps increasing, the pinch bolt on the cable isn't tight enough. That's clear as mud, isn't it.
Sounds like you're new to motorcycles, or at least vintage bikes. You can e-mail me at tinduc@niagara.com if you've any further questions.
The best book for your Duke is the factory manual- at least until I write one.
Cheers, Rocket